Members at Hackerspace have finally gotten around to finishing the assembly of this printer.
At the moment, the printer is still being calibrated/messed with.
Currrently, the printer is being optimised for ABS with an all metal Hexagon Hotend and a Wades extruder printing onto Kapton tape.
EDIT: As of 22/11/2014, now using ABS juice instead of Kapton tape.
 What's been done
- Printer fully assembled
- Heated bed MOSFET moved to external heatsink
- New Hexagon hotend to replace the unusable original hotend
- Cooling fan for hotend fitted with zip ties
- Printed loads of junk prints, like all printers
- Finally fixed bug - when starting a print, Z goes up then goes back down and ignores endstop
- Designed a part to attach a 40mm fan to the hexagon hotend: File:Hexfan.stl (needs printing)
 What needs to be done
Optimise for faster than slowpoke speedsEDIT: DONE. Now back at default Slic3r speeds.
- Continue messing with firmware for max accuracy and print quality.
Tidy the wiring (like this will ever get done?)EDIT: DONE. Sort of. Arduino/RAMPS now mounted correctly.
- Try Nylon filament as it is not often printed due to high flow temperature.
Latest firmware (A work in progress): https://github.com/mwidmski/Prusa-i3-Marlin-Firmware
 Heated Bed
The PCB heat bed has been replaced with a 230v silicone heat pad attached to a sheet of borosilicate glass. Here is a teardown video of the cheap SSR that is using the old 12v line that was powering the PCB bed to switch 240v Older Firmware: https://github.com/33d/marlin-i3